Other Psionics

February 19, 2014

Radionics / Psionic Devices

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Written by: Anka

Psionic Tuning Box

Make sure to read this entire document before you begin constructing this device.

Materials

  • (one set of jack plugs and potentiometers, such as a1 and a2 is a channel)
  • potentiometers (1 + 2x # of channels)
  • female jack plugs (1 + 2x # of channels)
  • toggle switch
  • 18 gauge or finer insulated copper wire
  • solder
  • box (an old shoe box will function; size depends on how many channels and what amount of space you wish for labeling tags, if any. I would suggest at least 6 inches wide, by 6 inches long, by 3 inches deep)

Tools

  • soldering iron
  • wire cutters
  • drill

Common places to acquire:

  • hardware store: insulated copper wire, wood for building a box (if a wooden box is desired)
  • electronics supply store: copper wire, solder, potentiometers, female jack plugs, toggle switch

Instructions

  1. Take the box top, drill or cut holes in it corresponding to the placement of the potentiometers, jack plugs, and toggle switch as shown in the diagram.
  2. Take a jack plug, a potentiometer, and the toggle switch. Place them in the cut holes for set 1.  Ground the jack plug to the potentiometer’s input. Ground another wire to the potentiometer’s output. Ground this to the toggle switch input. Ground another wire to the toggle switch output. String this wire to the right side of the lid.
  3. Ground another wire to the toggle switch input. String this wire to the left side of the lid.
  4. Use the number of channels to determine how many split wires are needed to be grounded to the wire string to the right side of the lid.
  5. Take a jack plug and a potentiometer. Place them in the cut holes for each sets (a1 and a2, b1 and b2, etc.).

Take each wire; ground each to the corresponding jack plug’s input.
Ground the jack plug’s output to the potentiometer’s input.
Ground the potentiometer’s output to the corresponding second half of the set (a1 and a2, etc.) potentiometer’s input.
Ground the potentiometer’s output to the jack plug’s input.
Ground the jack plug’s output to the wire strung to the left side of the lid.

  1. Repeat this process for the other sets.
  2. When this is done for all channels then the wiring is complete.
  3. Secure the lid.

Sample/Witness Plate Attachment

Make sure to read this entire document before you begin constructing this device.

Materials

  • potentiometer
  • male jack plug
  • toggle switch
  • 18 gauge or finer insulated copper wire
  • 18 gauge exposed copper wire
  • solder
  • box (an old shoe box will function; I would suggest at least 7 inches wide, by 7 inches long, by 3 inches deep)
  • 6 inch steel or iron plate

Tools

  • soldering iron
  • wire cutters
  • drill

Common places to acquire:

  • hardware store: insulated copper wire, exposed copper wire, wood for building a box (if a wooden box is desired)
  • electronics supply store: insulated copper wire, exposed copper wire, solder, potentiometer, male jack plug, toggle switch
  • steel or iron plate: coffee can lid works well

Instructions

  1. Take the box top: drill or cut holes in it corresponding to the placement of the potentiometer, jack plug, toggle switch, and steel or iron plate as shown in the diagram.
  2. Take the steel plate: place the exposed copper wire onto the plate as shown in the diagram. Use the solder to secure the wire.
  3. Take the jack plug, a potentiometer, the toggle switch, and the steel plate: place them in the cut holes.
  4. Make sure that the plate is set so that the exposed copper wire will be facing down into the box when it is finished.
  5. Ground the jack plug to the toggle switch input.

Ground another wire to the toggle switch output. Ground this to the potentiometer’s input.
Ground another wire to the potentiometer’s output. String and ground this wire to the plate’s input as shown in the diagram.
Ground another wire to the plate’s output. String and ground this wire to the jack plug.

  1. Secure the lid.

Head Psionic Focuser, Amplifier, and Tuner

Make sure to read this entire document before you begin constructing this device.
Materials

  • copper foil
  • 2 steel or iron plates (size varies some, approximately 4″ x 4″ {crown and cerebellum lobe})
  • 2 steel or iron plates (size varies some, approximately 2″ x 2″ {temples})
  • 1 steel or iron plate (size varies some, approximately 3″ x 3″ {“third eye”})
  • 12 rectangular magnets (size varies some, approximately 2″ x 1″ x 1/4″)
  • 2 donut magnets (size varies some, approximately 3″ diameter x 1″, with a 1 1/2″ diameter hole)
  • 2 donut magnets (size varies some, approximately 2″ diameter x 1″, with a 3/4″ diameter hole)
  • 18 gauge or finer exposed copper wire
  • 3 potentiometers
  • 4 female jack plugs
  • insulated copper wire
  • helmet (bicycle, construction, cardboard strips)
  • electrical or cloth tape
  • electrically conductive glue or super glue
  • solder

Tools

  • soldering iron
  • wire cutters
  • tin snips

Common places to acquire

  • hardware store: exposed copper wire, tape, super glue, construction hat, insulated copper wire
  • electronics supply store: magnets, exposed copper wire, tape, electrically conductive glue, solder, potentiometers, female jack plugs, insulated copper wire
  • stained glass supply store: copper foil, or copper foil tape
  • bicycle helmet: sporting goods store, department store
  • steel or iron plates: sheet metal shop, metal recycling shop

Instructions

  1. First make a helmet out of cardboard, if you did not acquire one. This is easily done by measuring horizontally around your head from the third eye, past the cerebellum (back part of the head, where the spine connects to the brain), back to the third eye. Again measure from the third eye to the cerebellum, but this time vertically. Lastly measure from the right side center to the left side center. You then need to cut the cardboard strips 1-2 inches wide, those lengths. These easily form into a “helmet”, using glue, staples, or tape. If you use the cardboard strips to make the helmet, it can at a later date be moved into a construction or bicycle helmet.
  2. Cover all the iron or steel plates with copper foil, using the glue to secure the foil.
  3. Copper wire wrap all the magnets. Mark the negative pole of all of the magnets.
  4. Take the crown and cerebellum plates, glue the larger donut magnets to them, with the negative pole facing towards the plate.
  5. Use the solder to ground the wire ends to the plates, as well as a female jack plug to the middle of the plate, in the donut magnet hole.
  6. Also using the solder, and some length of insulated copper wire, ground a potentiometer to each plate. This length of wire allows the potentiometers to be mounted anywhere on the helmet desired.
  7. Ground one of the female jack plugs to a length of insulated copper wire. Ground this to the bottom of the cerebellum plate.
  8. Take the third eye plate, glue 4 rectangular magnets to the plate in a cross shape, as shown in the diagram. Make sure that the negative pole faces towards the plate.
  9. Use the solder to ground the wire ends to the plates, as well as a female jack plug to the middle of the plate, in the center of the cross shape.
  10. Also using the solder, and some length of insulted copper wire, ground a potentiometer to each plate. This length of wire allows the potentiometers to be mounted anywhere on the helmet desired.
  11. Take the temples’ plates, glue the smaller donut magnets to them, with the negative pole facing towards the plate.  Use the solder to ground the wire ends to the plates.
  12. Secure the plates to their locations above the proper nerve clusters, as shown in the diagram. The magnets should be facing away from the body.
  13. Place 1 rectangular magnet between the cerebellum plate and the crown plate, using the glue to secure it. This glue does not have to be electrically conductive, as it is not directly touching a plate.
  14. Using the solder, ground both ends of the copper wrap to lengths of insulated copper wire. Ground the insulated wire to the crown and cerebellum plates, as shown in the diagram.
  15. Place 1 rectangular magnet between the crown plate and the third eye plate, using the glue to secure it. This glue does not have to be electrically conductive, as it is not directly touching a plate.
  16. Using the solder, ground both ends of the copper wrap to lengths of insulated copper wire. Ground the insulated wire to the crown and third eye plates, as shown in the diagram.
  17. Place 1 rectangular magnet between the cerebellum plate and the temples’ plates, using the glue to secure it. This glue does not have to be electrically conductive, as it is not directly touching a plate.
  18. Using the solder, ground both ends of the copper wrap to lengths of insulated copper wire. Ground the insulated wire to the cerebellum plates and the temples’ plates, as shown in the diagram.
  19. Place 1 rectangular magnet between the crown plate and the temples’ plates, using the glue to secure it. This glue does not have to be electrically conductive, as it is not directly touching a plate.
  20. Using the solder, ground both ends of the copper wrap to lengths of insulated copper wire. Ground the insulated wire to the crown plates and the temples’ plates, as shown in the diagram.
  21. Place 1 rectangular magnet between the third eye plate and the temples’ plates, using the glue to secure it. This glue does not have to be electrically conductive, as it is not directly touching a plate.
  22. Using the solder, ground both ends of the copper wrap to lengths of insulated copper wire. Ground the insulated wire to the cerebellum third and the temples’ plates, as shown in the diagram.

Psi-Amp Wand

Make sure to read this entire document before you begin constructing this device.

Materials

  • 1 (12″ x 3/4″ diameter) steel pipe
  • 1 male 3/4″ copper coupler
  • 1 female 3/4″ copper coupler
  • copper foil
  • 16 rectangular magnets (size varies some: approximately 2″ x 1″ x 1/4″)
  • 18 gauge or finer copper wire
  • electrical or cloth tape
  • electrically conductive glue or super glue
  • solder

Tools

  • soldering iron
  • wire cutters

Common places to acquire

  • hardware store: pipe, copper couplers, copper wire, tape, super glue
  • electronics supply store: magnets, copper wire, tape, electrically conductive glue, solder
  • stained glass supply store: copper foil, or copper foil tape

Instructions

  1. Attach the copper coupling units to the ends of the pipe using the glue to insure that it is secured.
  2. Wrap a single layer of copper foil around the pipe.  If you found copper foil that does not have an adhesive backing attached to it, using a small bead of glue at the start, half way, and at the end will do. The adhesive backing does make this easier. However, the electrically conductive glue does function slightly better.  If the copper foil is in strips, or copper foil tape the final outcome of the wrapping will resemble the diagram.
  3. Next mark the positive or north polarity of the magnets.

          Then wrap the magnets with the copper wire.

  1. Glue the magnets to the pipe as shown in the diagram, making sure to face the negative or south pole of the magnets towards the pipe.
  1. Also check to make sure that you are placing the magnets near the female coupler end.
  2. Solder the copper wire ends that extend from the magnet to the pipe.



About the Author

anuj





One Response to “Radionics / Psionic Devices”

  1. Robin Hall says:

    The instructions do not tell you how to differentiate the magnetic poles.

    I havent tried construction yet, but it occurs to me that one could use an ordinary magnetic compass. The end of the compass which points north must be the south pole, so, if you bring up a magnet and if the compass deflects away from the magnet, you are bringing up the south pole, while if the compass needle moves toward the end of the magnet, then this has to be the north pole of the magnet

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